Not completely sure how you mean, but I think you're asking about the process, so I'll describe that. If I'm completely wrong or this doesn't answer your question, or if you want more info, let me know.
This is probably more information than you actually wanted, but I talk a lot...
"Linocut" is a form of relief printing. In relief printing an image is typically carved (not always, though... there are a few processes considered to be relief printing which don't involve carving, the most common being "Collagraph") into the chosen medium. The parts of the image which will carry ink are left raised, and areas which will be blank are carved away. The most common mediums are wood ("woodcut" or "woodblock"), linoleum ("linocut" (this is not the type of linoleum you put down on your kitchen floor, though)), and a soft, eraser-like material ("softblock," or "eraser carving"). The relief printing most people are personally familiar with, however, is cutting shapes into potatoes for craft projects. Whatever the medium, it's usually referred to as a "block" (as opposed to other types of printmaking where the medium is usually called a "plate").
The Sid Vicious image was done using linoleum (Speedball Battleship Grey to be exact).
First, you need an image of whatever it is you're going to be printing... say... Sid Vicious
Then you need to get that image on to the block
backwards. There's many, many ways to do this. Sometimes, people will draw in pencil directly on to their block.
I use two different methods depending on my mood. They both start in the computer. I use Illustrator to draw the image. When I'm done, I print it out on a black and white laser printer. In the case of Sid, since I did two colors I printed out two pages: one that would show where the red ink would be and one that showed where the black would be.
The first method I use to transfer the image to the block is to trace the image in pencil on light weight velum or tracing paper. When done, you put it down on the block and burnish it by rubbing something all over it. I use a bone folder.
The second method is a lot cooler, but can give you a buzz (and not in a good way) if you're not careful. I print the image out and then lay it face-down on the block. Then I soak a rag with acetone (available at any hardware store very cheaply) and rub the rag on the back side of the laser print then burnish with the bone folder. I also sometimes use blender pens made by Chartpak (they have to be Chartpak). The pens contain a solvent called Xylene. It's much more effective than acetone, but much more caustic as well. You also have better control over where the solvent is going with the pen than with the rag.
Then the fun begins!
I was using Speedball linocutters up until yesterday. They're inexpensive, but don't stay sharp. Yesterday I got my first set of "real" tools made by Power Grip. I got them at this super cool Japanese woodworking store in Berkeley that I could have spent my entire life savings at... but I digress.
Basically, you use a V shaped gouge tool to outline all the areas where there will be ink, and then use the other assorted tools to shave away all the rest.
You take your block printing ink, squeeze out a little on to the "inking plate" (I use a piece of glass out of a cheap picture frame), and roll your "brayer" (aka "roller)" over the ink until you get it to a certain consistency. I get it to where it actually makes a "tack!" sound when I lift the brayer up, and the over-all look of the ink is like the peel of an orange.
Then you roll the ink on to the block. You put your receiving paper down onto the block and burnish it. The tool used to burnish it is called a baren, but I've never actually seen anyone use one. Most people use a wooden kitchen spoon. I, actually, don't burnish. I use a large rubber brayer and apply a
lot of pressure.
Then you peel the paper away from the block. Ta da! Art!
Since Sid is a two color piece you have to do all of this for both colors. I carved both blocks, and then ran the red block for all the prints. When they dried, I then did the black.
This, BTW, is known, as "hand pulling" the prints. You can also use various presses, but they're all very pricey and far out of my range.
If you want to learn more, do Google searches for "relief printing," "block printing," "woodblock printing," "linocut," etc. There's a lot of great tutorials all over the Internet, and some extremely talented artists.
You're probably familiar with Ukiyo-e, or "floating world" Japanese prints from the 19th century. What most people don't realize about them is that they were all woodblock prints. Eastern style woodblock is a bit different than western style, but just as rigorous. If you ever get a chance to see one of these prints up-close, I highly recommend it. Seeing them on the screen or reproduced on paper really takes away a lot of quality.
Anycow...
Like I said, probably WAY more info than you needed.
BTW... if it's something you're thinking about getting into, Jerry's Art-a-Rama in Knoxville has all the supplies you would need, a really friendly staff, books on the subject, and great prices.
-edit: a TON of typos... probably still a lot more in there somewhere... and a bit of editing to make it more clear-
I'm curious, though, how that sort of thing is managed.
That was exactly what I was wondering. Thanks! It sounds like a simple enough process, but I'll certainly be going to Jerry's to get how-to help. 
